Saturday, February 09, 2019

secrets of guidebooking, revealed

Those of us who write guidebooks for a living like to make a big deal about how it's totally a real job and we're not just getting paid to bum around checking out cool stuff on some fat company's dime. It's work, you guys! We are working.

Real talk, though: guidebook writing is not rocket surgery. Mostly it's a lot of wandering around with a notebook and a cellphone, looking like a dork because you spend way more than a normal amount of time on a sidewalk in front of a storefront, not really going anywhere, seeming completely lost.

(Or running on fumes in search of a trailhead at the end of a road that appears on no maps, unless it's that one you passed a few miles back and ignored because there's no way anyone could possibly drive anything but a tank down that road....) 

It's not hard. But it is slow work, and it doesn't pay much, so in order for it to be worth doing, you have to make it fun. This is easier to do if you happen to get a thrill from discovering and writing down things like 
  • bus schedules 
  • train schedules
  • ferry routes
  • average menu prices
  • opening hours
  • size/number of potholes in access road
  • for how many miles?
  • ticket prices, entry fees
  • number of cougar attacks last year
  • currency exchange rates
  • phone numbers
  • what is that flower
  • do ticks around here carry Lyme disease 
  • asking for a friend
  • rules about border crossings
  • immunization and customs requirements
  • GPS coordinates in three formats
  • backcountry permit requirements
  • hotel room prices that vary by day of week/mood of receptionist
  • rental car policies esp re damage caused by potholes

Bonus points if you enjoy squeezing all this information into a small imaginary box with a strict wordcount. 

Then again, you also get to go on scenic hikes, ride weird bus routes, hang out in bars, and sometimes eat delicious food (or at least take photos of it). Every day is different.

Anyway, here are a few scenes from the fun parts of putting together the brand-new, updated edition of my latest guidebook, Walking Portland: 


Portland' skyline has changed a bit since I first started writing about it. This photo shows an Imperial Star Destroyer parked illegally on the east end of the Burnside Bridge, next to a goofy little office building called the Fair-Haired Dumbbell, which I've tried to hate but reluctantly kind of adore.

Kay's Bar in Sellwood - an old favorite, with the best lamps and pretty good nachos.
Gena Rowlands hangs out near the pinball machines at Holman's on 28th Ave - I visit her a lot, even though this corner of the bar is right next to the bathrooms and smells terrible
I don't care what you say, these stupid little electric scooter things are super fun.
Sometimes, in Portland, you go to a bar just to play a little pinball and the place is full of youngsters in pajamas with little backpacks on, for no apparent reason


Pinball is a contact sport and can be dangerous

The typical Portland diet includes a wide variety of foods 
If you're in Portland you should try to get out on the water (just don't touch it) (the Willamette River is poison)


The best chicken salad: at Basilisk, in the Zipper building, a hipster food court on NE Sandy Blvd
Olympia Provisions - preserved meats designed for world-class gold-medal athletes.
(Not true. But they are delicious.)

Spider Jerusalem hangs out in front of the comics library at Reed College
City of Roses. (Fact.)


Your author with a few examples of what's been taking so long.




Saturday, February 02, 2019

just keep walking

Walking is a great way to think. Lots of important thinkers have written about it, from Emerson
and Thoreau to Nietzsche to Kierkegaard – who supposedly said, “If one just keeps on walking, everything will be alright.” (Seems worth a try.)


Walking and writing go well together, too – just look at Wordsworth, or for something a little more contemporary, Rebecca Solnit (who wrote the wonderful Wanderlust: A History of Walking [2012]). 

Anyway, it beats sitting at your desk and struggling to dredge up something useful to say. Writing, even travel writing, involves a surprising amount of sitting at a desk. When I'm on a deadline, I dream up excuses all morning, little errands that surely need doing: groceries to pick up, packages to mail, something on hold (or more likely, overdue) at the library.

So if there’s one thing I hope for the new edition of Walking Portland, it’s that it gives readers 30-odd new excuses to go outside and take a walk.



Although the book works just fine as a travel guide for visitors to Portland, it's really less about getting around than it is about slowing down and seeing the city differently.

Portland is growing and changing at breakneck speed. It’s hard to keep up, even for someone like me, whose job is to keep up. Things move fast: apartments spring up on the tombs of old dive bars; restaurants open to great fanfare, then close again before I have a chance to eat there; entire streets are rerouted or redesigned.

The pace of growth in formerly sleepy little Stumptown is exciting, but for some of us it's also a little alarming. I find that walking is a nice way to slow it all down, take stock of what's new, and absorb the changes at street level. (I still miss a lot, and I'm constantly amazed at new buildings and businesses popping up where just yesterday I could swear there was nothing.)



Most of the walks in the book are built for sauntering aimlessly through urban areas with a high potential for distraction and discovery. (A few are more remote, incorporating wide-open meadows, riverside paths or leafy trails through the woods.) They’re easy to customize: you can mix several walks together, do half one day and half the next, get tired and hop a bus, or even just “walk” vicariously while sitting in a pub, reading the book.

I support that approach.



As I mentioned in the first edition – and it’s still true – some of the best things in Walking Portland are gone: The old steakhouse with the deep red leather booths. The creek that disappears. The rock club that turned into a pawn shop. The building shaped like a shoe.

Some of the walks are ghost walks now – so much of what they pass is lost. But there’s still a lot in Portland waiting to be found.

The new edition includes three brand-new walks and one bonus walk, as well as all new photos and updated descriptions of the original 30 routes. Ideally, it should work like any good guide: point you toward a neighborhood and give you a general sense of its character, then turn you loose. After all, it’s much more fun to discover interesting things on your own. (But do let me know in the comments if you find things you're excited about sharing!)

Portland...oh no


Friday, February 01, 2019

New edition of Walking Portland out Tuesday!

Coming SOON! A brand-spanking-new edition of my guide to exploring my rapidly changing but eternally weird hometown, Portland, Oregon:

Walking Portland: 33 Tours of Stumptown's Funky Neighborhoods, Historic Landmarks, Park Trails, Farmers Markets and Brewpubs



It's due to publish February 5, just in time to seriously test your devotion to walking in the rain. But why wait? You can pre-order it now from Powell'sAnnie Bloom'sBroadway Books, or whichever indie bookseller is your favorite.